I lost my 2014 RC10 Classic
in the 2022 garage fire, and it was so long out of production that
there was really no prospect of replacing it. But then in 2023
Team Associated started a long line of additional RC10
re-releases. I didn't know how many were going to be released or I
would have waited for the 6007 40th Anniversary Kit in 2024 which is
basically the same as what I lost, but in 2023 I jumped on this Classic
Clear Edition. It was the first in a series of Team Associated
models to mold all the plastic parts in clear acrylic for display
only. The model is otherwise the same as the Classic kit. I
thought it would make a good replacement, give me a chance to build one
again, and I didn't mind not being able to drive it. Later I got a
couple of the other RC10 re-releases to try out of the other variations
and have at least one to drive.
The Classic Clear edition uses a clear anodized chassis and shocks instead of the traditional gold. The plastic parts are clear acrylic instead of white PA (polyamide - Nylon) and the model is otherwise nearly the same. I say nearly because I noticed a couple of minor hardware changes. It turns out changing to acrylic does more than just make the model pretty. Acrylic is much harder and more brittle than PA. This means trimming it, and particularly threading it, is much harder. Anywhere screws have to thread directly into plastic was incredibly difficult to assemble. Tapping the holes first would probably be a good idea, but I don't have any appropriately sized Imperial taps. I eventually got it together.
I didn't bother putting in a full set of electronics just for display. I used an old broken servo to hold the steering in place and a Tamiya silver can motor to hold the wheels. It looks good on the shelf.
The Classic Clear edition uses a clear anodized chassis and shocks instead of the traditional gold. The plastic parts are clear acrylic instead of white PA (polyamide - Nylon) and the model is otherwise nearly the same. I say nearly because I noticed a couple of minor hardware changes. It turns out changing to acrylic does more than just make the model pretty. Acrylic is much harder and more brittle than PA. This means trimming it, and particularly threading it, is much harder. Anywhere screws have to thread directly into plastic was incredibly difficult to assemble. Tapping the holes first would probably be a good idea, but I don't have any appropriately sized Imperial taps. I eventually got it together.
I didn't bother putting in a full set of electronics just for display. I used an old broken servo to hold the steering in place and a Tamiya silver can motor to hold the wheels. It looks good on the shelf.
 Page 1: Assembly |
 Page 2: Final Photos |