The
Axial RR10 Bomber is my second Axial kit, and my first rock
racer. The primary attribute of the model that drew me to it is
the full cage structure which was totally unlike anything else I had at
the time. This model is a combination of the Wraith and Yeti using
solid axles and 4-link suspension both front and rear. The
steering servo is mounted on the axle. The body does not need to
be removed to change the battery. Instead, the hood swivels
forward and reveals a pocket where the engine firewall would be.
The spare tire on the back is a full size real usable tire which is
important to the weight and balance of the model. Like any Axial
kit the parts are well made and packaged, and the instructions are
excellent. The hardware is all hex drive. The kit comes with
some upgraded parts compared with the RTR including aluminum suspension
links. The wheels are plastic beadlocks which, even more than
metal beadlocks, will give you carpal tunnel syndrome.
From the beginning I wanted to make this waterproof so I could use it in
any conditions. I chose a high torque Savox waterproof steering
servo. I also wanted to be able to accurately simulate the dual
roles of a real rock racer: high speed desert racing and low speed rock
crawling. The first thing this required was using the optional
2-speed transmission to which I fitted using another, but cheaper, Savox
waterproof servo. I also wanted a really robust power
system. I had never tried Tekin before but everything I read about
them indicated they were the good stuff, so I got a waterproof 550
sized sensored brushless motor and an RX4 programmable ESC. I had a
bit of trouble making good solders since I was still learning the
craft, but this is a great power system. Very smooth at low
speeds, and plenty of power at any speed. Everything is
waterproof, even my Spektrum receiver.
My only regret with this setup is that the ESC is highly programmable
but very difficult to access since you have to take out 10 screws to
remove the body.
The model is very good at both crawling and racing, but has not been
very durable. Virtually every time I have ever used the model I
have broken something. The first big problem is that the CG is
very high so almost any turning at speed causes it to roll over. I
addressed this by adding wheel weights. This solved the rollover
problem but put additional strain on the drivetrain. I broke the
front diff locker in half and had to replace it with a steel
version. The most frequent problem is breaking the rod ends on the
front links. They are soft plastic and it doesn't take much to
tear the lug open and disconnect a link. I have replaced them many
times. Another
problem is that the steering link falls off. It is not captured by
anything except popping onto the ball ends, and since it hangs in front
of the axle can easily impact rocks and get knocked off. I lost
the original in a rock pile and had to buy a Vanquish version. I
recommend adding a washer above the ball end to retain the link.
Update: This model was destroyed in the 2022 fire. It has not been replaced.