Orlandoo Hunter F-150 Project

Page 1:  Assembly

   

Your standard hobby building area may not be adequate for this model.  The whole box is smaller than a notebook, and the parts are tiny indeed.  You'll need plenty of light and an open working area where it is easy to find dropped parts.  If you drop a screw on the carpet, it will never be seen again.  The part bags are nicely labelled as shown, making this a straightforward build if you have the eyesight for it.  The X-Acto knife has been shown for scale.




I did not have tools small enough to work on this model, but thankfully the kit comes with some that are good enough to do the job.  Included are a tiny Phillips screwdriver, a pin vise with two drill bits, a tiny nut driver, and a tiny hex key.  You will need all of these during the build.  The lines on the cutting mat show the scale.


   

Here's a mockup of the electronics connections.  The included diagram is only in Chinese, so it takes a little work to figure it out.  The kit does not come with any electronics, but you can buy almost everything you need from Orlandoo.  I got their 1.7g servo, their 200 rpm motor, and their ESC.  You need to supply your own receiver.  You'll need 3 channels if you want to control the lights, but if you don't have a 3rd channel they will just stay on.  The disconnected yellow wire in the picture is actually for the lights and goes to channel 3.  The ESC does not have Li-Po low voltage cutoff, but it will accept a 2s Li-Po.  You just need to be careful about charging it on time.  There are a couple of open slots on the board to solder in the wires for the headlight and tail light LEDs.  The motor shown on the right has the gear reduction built in.  You can get 4 different options: 150 rpm, 200 rpm, 300 rpm, and 500 rpm.  I wanted good torque for climbing so I got the 200 rpm.  The model is very slow, but just right for climbing.  I suspect it would be underpowered with the faster motors.  The little metal gears are quite loud under load, but seem strong.


   

There are no differentials here, just locked spools.  The ring and pinion gears are plastic, but the axles are metal and the kit comes with a full set of ball bearings.  The bearings are somewhat pointless given how much friction is in the gears, but they are still welcome.  There are many tiny ball studs for the steering and 4-link attachments.


   

The kit comes with brass idler gears to get from the motor to the transfer case.  In my kit, the middle gear was mounted very crooked on the axle so it wobbled and was mostly unusable.  It is pressed onto the axle so correcting this was very difficult, especially without damaging anything.  I eventually got it to run true using a rubber hammer on a concrete block.  The right hand image shows all the electronics installed.  Everything needs to fit inside the cab, and that's not easy.  The ESC goes between the front wheel wells, and the battery, motor, receiver, and wires need to fit behind.  You can also buy a sound kit for this, but I'm not sure where it would go.  Note that I have a pretty big receiver here so you'd have more room with a micro version.



The little tires even come with foams.  There is obviously no point in gluing them.  The included hex driver can be used for the wheel nuts.  I did not take any photos of attaching the body, but it just involves snapping it on.  The forward cab snaps off to access the battery using a tab behind the bumper.


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©2017 Eric Albrecht